Beyond where I’ve been

The counter of the Bella Bella airport waiting room is decorated with sheaves of brassy purple branches. One of the Continue reading →

North by Northeast

When John Muir landed in Auckland on January 15, 1904, a Mr. & Mrs. Clementine, with whom he’d had long Continue reading →

I Need a Thesaurus of Water

The last day was long, the most distance we covered in the whole trip (13.5 miles), over an undulating track Continue reading →

Falls seen and unseen

The ascent from the Clinton River Valley to MacKinnon Pass is far easier than I expect. Perhaps my earlier elation Continue reading →

Walking One

Superlatives are boring. But the Milford Track is called the best walk in the world for a reason. Getting to Continue reading →

Thankful

Sydney is a city of reversals. Days are stretching long as Christmas carols blare from loudspeakers. A walk from the Continue reading →

Saturn is my north star

One rarely sees stars in Sydney, what with the city lights and marine scrim, but the night before I left Continue reading →

Something else

You go to the same places multiple times; what you have to say is a layered accumulation of each visit, Continue reading →